Veggie Kitchen (Intention of Love) - Northcote

The last time I heard the use of the phrase "intention of love" was as a kid when it was as an excuse by a dear one for rolling me up in a sleeping bag and stuffing me into a Salvation Army charity bin.

Okay, so that may have been a dream and never actually happened, but I'm sure we can all agree it was perfectly reasonable for me to be apprehensive about visiting a restaurant with said phrase in its title. Never-the-less, after months and months of hyped up recommendations from amigos, I was pleased to find my initial fears were unfounded. So, why the hype? Because at Veggie Kitchen, there really is a lot of care put into the dishes - indeed, the whole concept is to provide healthy "food therapy" according to traditional Chinese principles - and it really does come across. The interior of the restaurant is fairly stripped down and plain, but there is something comforting about the feel of the place.

Possibly the biggest issue is that, with a completely vegetarian Chinese menu, there is simply too much choice for someone not accustomed to so many options at a Chinese restaurant - if you're into your tofu, you'll be completely overwhelmed. The philosophy here is to share a few dishes, which works well to quell any such over-stimulation. On this occasion we elected to get a mix of the obvious, and the more innovative.

We'll start with the obvious, and one of the in-house proclaimed most popular items on the menu: the dumplings. No doubt about it, dumplings have been all the rage about town for many a year, and those at the Veggie Kitchen sit right up there with the best of them. Stuffed with raw cabbage, radish and bean curd, they seem to have less of a homogenised taste as opposed as to some of the 'fast food' dumplings at various places in the city, and didn't have that gluggy consistency or leave me with a touch of a feeling of self-loathing after eating them. Alongside the dumplings were a serving of the Cheese

balls: a filling of soft wasabi flavoured cheese that readily explodes out of its chewy konjak casing. I'm not sure that I am fan of the texture of konjak, but I am of wasabi, which makes these worth the effort - and not overly hot either, so don't let the wasabi terrify you. We also tried the seaweed roll. A nori roll where the rice is replaced with alfalfa, and with a filling of apple, carrot, cucumber, and soy ham - I was not aware of this last ingredient until they arrived, however it just tasted like tofu to me, albeit inexplicably pink tofu. Ah Gei - described on the menu as a famous Danshui local delight - is very much worth the effort. It is a stuffed tofu pocket. Who would've thought it possible! A silky skin encasing innards of bean noodles, slivers of black fungus and stewing in tofu paste, creates a delicate and slightly odd looking structure. First time I have come across this dish, and I have to say, I am a fan.

For the larger dishes, the visit is not complete without an order of the Five Elements Veggie Pot. This is the signature dish, the name derived from the 5 elements of Chinese medicine and food therapy, with each element providing nutrition for different organs in the body. Served as a soup, it consists of various vegetables, crispy bean curd rolls, and goji berries - often termed as a "superfruit"due to their health properties. With a stewed cabbage-y base, take away the bean curd rolls and goji berries and it is almost reminiscent of an Eastern European stew. It's interesting having the Bean Curd rolls in the pot, an item clearly taken from another part of the menu, but the dish as a whole just makes you feel good about yourself. And in the end, isn't that all that mother ever wanted for us?

All in all, very satisfied with this place. The staff are very willing to cater to any extra dietary requirements should they be necessary, and with barely a table free despite its modest location on St Georges Road, it clearly has developed quite a neat little following. Hot tip: if you're a vinegar fiend like me, try one of the traditional Taiwanese vinegar drinks. Sweet and tangy and something you're unlikely to find in too many other places around town. All in all, I walked away from the Veggie Kitchen knowing that I would be returning, and not just because I left my hat behind.

4.5/5

Blogging On The Road part 2: Malaysia

Malaysia: "Truly Asia" according to an old tourism campaign, and a fact corroborated by its geographical location according to The Times World Atlas. It had been nearly three and a half years since my last jaunt into South-East Asia and, I must confess, over the past 3 years I have had some serious street food withdrawal symptoms. A stopover in Malaysia - Pulau Penang in particular - seemed the perfect antidote to this affliction. Penang is described as the "Food Paradise of Asia" according to the region's self-published tourism material, and given the multicultural stew that is Malyasia - with more than 20% of the population of Indian heritage - surely there would be some strong vegetarian influences on the Malaysian dishes!

Well, the reality is that there both is, and there isn't. My first experience when I touched down in KL - aside from being rooked by a cabbie - was to insist upon my mate whom I was staying with that we go out and get some street food for breakfast. We settled on an Indian-Muslim street cafe, ordering a double-serve of roti canai with only a vegetarian dhal...what we received was the roti canai with dhal, anchovy sambal, and a chicken curry. This pretty well sets the tone for what to expect when ordering vegetarian in Malaysia. There is an incredibly high proliferation of western chains - KFC and McDonald's seem to appear on every other street corner - throughout Malaysia and, unfortunately, with a dearth in veg. options in most places I visited - particularly across Borneo - I was restricted to eating mainly vegetable side dishes and wedges at chain restaurants, interspersed with the odd serving of roti canai. The lowlight being an infamous Cream of Asparagus soup at the Afghan cafe in Kuching, which tasted like someone had topped off an almost full salt shaker with an arrowhead of asparagus, a dash of milk, and set to simmer.

However! Any such negative impressions are blown out of the water when you get to the UNESCO heritage listed city of Georgetown in Penang  - "Pearl of the Orient" to you. Famous for its hawker centres and food stands by the roadside, Penang is also the birthplace of many dishes you no doubt both know and love. It is not that most places here serve more vegetarian options than elsewhere, it is more that there is simply such a high concentration of hawker stands and restaurants in Georgetown that you cannot help but find places offering a vegetarian twist on local dishes, the majority of which I made sure I got around to sampling. One of the first dishes you should try is the aforementioned
ROTI CANAI
This very simple delicious dish is a national favourite. The roti canai (pronounced "chen-eye") is a buttery, soft, fluffy flat bread that has undergone a hefty kneading process before being fried in a skillet with an impressive amount of oil and/or butter. The result? A crispy, golden flaky base, perfect for soaking up dhal and spicy curries, and great for breakfast, lunch or dinner. My tip: roti canai for breakfast is the way to go. A staple at many street cafes, you should not have to walk too much further than a block in Georgetown to find dough being tossed in the air as the hungry diners look on, salivating. And at generally RM1.00 ($0.30) per roti, it is insanely cheap! So, where is the best roti canai?
The truth is, it is far too subjective for me to say. Every person I met recommended a different place as being the best, and time was too much of a factor to try them all. So here is my advice: As it is an Indian-Muslim dish, the best bet is to stick to the Indian quarter in Lebuh Chulia - this applies to most vego dishes too. Kassim Mustafa restaurant came as one of the most highly recommended. Given that they were consistently out of dough whenever I ordered, it clearly is a popular destination. Another highly regarded source is Restoran Kapitan on the corner of Lebuh Chulia and Lebuh King - one block from Kassim Mustafa. Kapitan was one place where I did manage to try their roti canai. It most definitely deserves the big wrap the guys at Cocoa Mews guesthouse gave it. The soft, flaky pastry virtually melts in your mouth. However it loses points for serving me dhal which had a massive chunk of what looked like beef floating in it. When I asked for a vegetarian dhal, the guy simply emptied the dhal back into the cooker, and refilled the bowl from the same cooker. Dude! Really? Oddly enough, it was from the much more *ahem* rustic looking Indian place across the road - Ros Mutiara - that catered a little more carefully to vegetarians. A discovery I made on my final morning when I ordered their
MEE GORENG

Absolutely nothing like the rubbish sold for $0.60 per pack at Woolies, these yellow noodles are fried in a thick spicy tomato gravy along with fried tofu cubes, potato, crispy flour, and garnished with lettuce, fried shallots, and a lime wedge to add a bit of tang to the heat. Despite being across the road from my guesthouse, I had avoided eating here until the final morning due to its grimy look. However, given most of their dishes are prepared on the street in front of you, there is little chance of them pulling a "Kapitan" and lumping a chunk of meat in your meal. And if their mee goreng is anything to go by, it is definitely worth a stop-in for lunch. Another dish - or, more accurately, array of dishes - worth trying for lunch is the
BANANA LEAF
Available at many Indian-Muslim restaurants, the Banana Leaf special is a collection of curries, sauces, coconut milk, rice and papadams laid out out on a large banana leaf, and Woodlands Vegetarian Restaurant on Lebuh Penang is known to make one of the best. This was my highly anticipated final lunch in Penang, having been recommended to me on the first day by an English lass I met called Charlotte. Of course, what Charlotte neglected to mention was that when she ate there previously with her two friends, one Banana Leaf special was enough for the three of them. Yep, I was that chump at the restaurant who couldn't finish his lunch. Heck, even getting through 50% of it was a struggle! However, in no way is that a comment on the food itself - honestly, 400g of rice??? - which was suitably delicious. Three curry sauces - one dhal, the other two of differing heat levels - and three curry bowls providing a mixture of spicy, creamy, and the downright unknown. This meal gives you a sense of adventure, and perhaps a sense of self-loathing for not conquering all that is before you.
CENDOL & AIS KACANG
These are the two local desserts, both offering a refreshing relief from the tropical heat. Cendol (pronounced "chen-daal") is the name given to the primary ingredient in the dessert, the Cendol noodle which is a chewy, green rice-flour noodle. It is served in a bowl which consists of a base of finely shaved ice, red beans, palm sugar syrup, and the noodles, before being drowned in fresh coconut milk. Very tasty and refreshing, although if, like me, you struggle with large doses of milk - dairy/non-dairy - then perhaps splitting a bowl is the best solution. Cendol is widely available, but the hot spot is at Joo Hooi Cafe on Jalan Panang. Teeming with locals and with a constant turnover of customers who spend all of 30 seconds in the cafe , make no mistake, these guys are doing something right!

From all reports, they also make a mean Ais Kacang. But loading their already over-flowing pockets wasn't what this trip was about, I wanted to hit one of the famous hawker centres! The hot tip from my man Arthur at Cocoa Mews was that Gurney Drive Hawker Centre is where it's at. I'd only just met Arthur, but so far he hadn't led me astray once, so Gurney Drive it was. The mild spanner in the works was that, being located in the tropics, the area is prone to tropical downpours. And boy was there a big one this day! The downside was that many of the stallholders chose not to open for the evening, but you can still tell this centre is the business. Being closer to the touristy locale of Batu Ferringhi, the food here is slightly pricier than you'd expect as it does cater more to visitors than locals, however proud banners proclaiming various national awards for various stall-holders suggest the requisite bonafides for consumption..."eat there" I guess is what I'm saying. I tried the Ais Kacang from a particularly chatty stall-holder. As with Cendol, it is served

in a bowl and has a base of shaved ice. Thrown into the mix are sweetened red beans, creamed sweet corn, palm fruit, and an array of jelly noodles and substances, all drenched in various syrups, condensed milk, and with a scoop of ice cream. Personally, not sure how I feel about this one. My main issue is that I feel conflicted about eating foods with a jelly-like texture. Also, there are a lot of contrasting tastes in the mix that I'm not sure are all in harmony. However, taste is subjective and it is a local favourite, so do give it a go if you visit!

The problem with only spending a few days in Penang is that, inevitably, there is much that will go untried. In particular, I am disappointed to say I did not get around to trying the region's signature dish: Nasi Kandar - basically a dish of rice with an array of local curries and side dishes accompanying it. However, there is another dish synonymous with Penang the is perhaps the most popular one in Australia. And for me, it was most definitely my Top Pick of all dishes I tried in Malaysia. This dish, of course, is the
PENANG LAKSA

When I asked my man Howie at Cocoa Mews for a recommendation for vegetarian laksa, he suggested I try a Chinese place called Ee Beng Restaurant. That's nearly my name! Good omen? I think so! Located in a mainly Chinese part of Georgetown on Lebuh Dickens, just off Jalan Penang, Ee Beng is an all vegetarian/all "green" restaurant with both a self-serve buffet and dishes made to order. Although not on the main drag of Jalan Penang, it appears to be a haven to many, with people in their dozens churning through and leaving with servings from the buffet in the short time I was there. As enticing as those dishes were though, I was here for one thing, and one thing alone! Taking up residence on a table next to two elderly Chinese women who were methodically

chopping some obscure greens, a bowl appeared in front of me quite promptly. My Budda, the fragrance! Thick rice noodles were to be found lurking amidst a dark brown spiced curry broth, topped with various greens - endive lettuce, a plethora of mint leaves, and those aforementioned obscure, spinachy greens - and

with a bed of pink, chopped ginger flower buds sitting atop the greens. The flavours complemented one

another like nobody's business! Given it is a dish typically made with a fish broth, finding a purely vegetarian version made me feel like I had finally had the "No Ebens" policy at the food party revoked...and boy did I take full advantage. Before the first bowl was done, a second one was on the way. And with my Kiwi friend

struggling with hers, half of a third bowl just seemed the gentlemanly thing to do. At only RM3.50 ($1.10) a bowl, there are no bones about it. Visiting this place is a MUST for anyone taking a trip to Penang and after a break from meat.

Blogging on the road part 1: Reviews from Israel

Apologies to my legions of readers, I'm afraid yours truly has been entirely selfish and indulged in a 6 week holiday, leaving all you vegos and vego sympathisers out there high and dry as to where to go and what to eat over summer. In my defence, it was not all lying on beaches and parleying with Bornean jungle creatures (although much of it was). No, a large portion of my travels were dedicated to unearthing some hidden -and some not-so hidden - gems for those of you with itchy feet - of the non-fungal variety - who may be planning an adventure in the near future.

The first part of my trip was a sponsored tour around Israel. I traversed much of this country, from North to South, East to West, and performed many a pirouette in between. There are several foods synonymous with Israel, chief amongst them being The Street Falafel, and Hummus (yes, Adam Sandler was telling no lies in Zohan. Except about Fizzy Bubblech, I'm afraid it is pure fiction). I made it my business to visit the more renowned purveyors of these essential Israeli food groups, as well as a few off the beaten path. So, without further ado, here are some of my thoughts on:

FALAFEL
The staple street food of Israel. As a vegetarian, it is unavoidable that you will smash through ample pita pockets or lafa (flat-bread wrap) stuffed with "hummus, salad, pickle, chips and diiiiiiiiiiiiiiiips!" Yep, such is the catch-cry you'll hear often around markets. Surprisingly, it took me a whole 5 days to sample my first Israeli falafel, but boy was it a good'un at the:
HaCarmel Market - Tel Aviv
In Tel Aviv's most famous produce market, amongst stalls selling genuine prada handbags for $5 a pop, is situated phone-box sized falafel stand. There is no chance of missing it. As with almost all falafel stalls worth their salt (or, chickpea flower), the falafel balls are made fresh to order, allowing you a couple of spare minutes to grab a freshly squeezed pomegranate juice from a nearby stall. Straight out of the fryer, the balls here maintain their moisture, encapsulated in a soft crunchy shell, and maintain their integrity with each bite rather than crumbling. A plethora of self-serve spices and sauces allow you to put the finishing touches on your pita pocket to your liking, all for a mere 10 Shekels (AUD$2.60).
Falafel Hakosem - Tel Aviv
When my Israeli friend Yaara told me she lived opposite the best falafel joint in TLV, I won't lie, I was a little sceptical. Everyone's local is the best, right? Boy was my face red - and tahini stained - when I tried it for myself. Falafels are serious business at Hakosem, with an assembly line of workers constantly whipping up a fresh batch and offering free samples to hungry customers waiting in line for their pita or lafa, or both. The falafels here are some of the most aromatic I have ever tasted, and a lot of care goes into each pita. Despite it being Israeli fast food, it is not merely about shoving all the ingredients into a pocket, rather each pita has carefully constructed layers of ingredients - freshly chopped tomato salad, pickled cabbage salad, schmug, pickles, hummus, tahini, chips - to provide each customer with the full compliment of tastes in each bite. A favourite destination!
Yahaloma's - Florentine, Tel Aviv

Hakosem may be my pick of the pita pocket places (try saying that quickly 10 times), but I'm afraid its falafels are pipped to the post by those at Yahaloma, a very vegetarian friendly cafe opened not so long ago by Egyptian proprietor Yahaloma Levy. The difference? Quite significant actually, as these are traditional Egyptian falafels, the way Mama used to make them...Yahaloma's mother, that is. These are not a regular feature on the menu - they are only served on Tuesdays and Wednesdays - and nor are they street-food. Yep, this is a sit-down falafel meal. The balls are arranged alongside several halved cherry tomatoes, each with a dollop of tahini and spicy sauce on top, served on a bed of lemon-juice enriched rocket, with a plate of fresh pita on the side. The texture of these falafels are perfect! A soft, crunchy exterior gives way to a centre that almost melts in your mouth, with not a hint of crumbling (yep, you can easily eat these falafels with cutlery like a sophisticated person...I still chose not to). The balls are alive with spices - hotter than your average falafel - and the mixture with the lemony greens just works, pure and simple. A nice change if you're seeking a brief fling away from the typical Israeli falafel.
Levy Brothers - Mahane Yehuda Market, Jerusalem
While Tel Aviv has the Carmel Market, Jerusalem has Mahane Yehuda. Lesser market? I think not! There is no lack of places to eat here, but a favourite of many are the Levy Brothers' falafels. On first attempt, the line was too long to wait (remember, this is Israel, and things are done on "Israel time" here), so I made a return visit. A solid performer, however the problem with coming later in the day is that they had stopped topping up salads and condiments, so lost that fresh taste edge, making it a middle-of-the-pack falafel. Worth perhaps fighting passed all the American birthright kids to grab one at the peak of lunch methinks.

HUMMUS
Of course, a key ingredient of any pita pocket - and Israeli life in general - is hummus. On my very first morning in Israel, I passed, essentially, a residential kitchen in Jaffa open to the street, with dozens of locals seated out on the street scooping liberal amounts of hummus onto pita and lapping it up. So simple, so satisfying. Made me regret having just spent an exorbitant amount on a pickled veg. salad. These open kitchens are far from unique. Indeed, Hummus cafes are favourite haunts for many locals, and some have quite a reputation behind them.

Hummus Ashkara - Tel Aviv
Located in the Northern part of the city, near the thriving new port precinct, is Hummus Ashkara. I got given the hot tip - and by hot tip, I mean via online recommendations from the general public - about this traditional eatery, operating for over 30 years now, 24 hours a day. A little hidden away, this really is a locals' joint, and they were quite happy to have a foreign visitor show up for dinner - I got given a free coke! Nothing particularly fancy is done here, they stick with their time-tested methods. Minimal spice, classic ingredients. I ordered - as I did everywhere - hummus with fuul, a brown fava bean paste as seen in the image above. I found the taste of the hummus fuul itself a tad bland, the key here being how you apply the sides and condiments. Invariably, you will have raw onion, pickles, cilantro peppers, spiced dips, pita and, should you wish it, a boiled egg. With all these options, you should be able to season the hummus to your liking.
Humus Said - Akko
Yep, it is specifically spelt "humus" here, and if you're keen to taste it at lunch time, you better have a spare 20 minutes to wait for a table! Located in the ancient port city of Akko (Acre) - itself a wonder - Humus Said is considered by many to be one of the best humus places in the whole Middle East - and, by extension, the world too! Not only that, there are no meat options here. Just hummus in its simplest form, and it is a slick operation. Our waiter dished out our bowls of hummus fuul like a ninja flicking out death stars. The policy is that if you're not satisfied with one bowl, you get a free refill. Not sure how often this actually happens, you need to be pretty hungry and quite the hummus hound to polish off more than one. The one issue I did have with this place was the amount of olive oil steeped in our bowl. It got to the point where we had to scoop several tablespoons into a side bowl - well, side ashtray - to stomach it. That being said, add it - and Akko - to your 'to do' list.
Abu Dhabi - Be'ersheba
Beersheva, it has to be said, is not the most remarkable place to visit. Israel's 4th largest city, it is basically a University in the desert with a city constructed around it, and if you're pushed for time, may not need to figure on your itinerary. For myself, I had some lovely friends - new and old - studying at Ben Gurion University to visit. And the good news is, they let me in on this little gem of a student hangout! Located across the road from the University, a few doors down from a bar called 'Publo' - there's your landmark to find it. This vegan-friendly joint serves up freshly made hummus with a table full of sides and a free coffee at the end, to the backdrop of some chilled out hip hop and reggae beats. This really is a student favourite, and although it may not have the acclaim of Said or Karavan, I found the hummus absolutely delicious, and the whole vibe of the place made it one of the most enjoyable eating out experiences of the trip, so it gets my top pick for hummus.

THE MISC.
Whilst the 3 listed above were the pick of the hummus cafes I visited, I can not carry on without mentioning a few institutions I neglected to visit. Abu Hasan (also known as Ali Karavan) in Jaffa is considered by many   as one of the rivals for best hummus in the Middle East. Whilst I did not make it there, I was fortunate enough on my last night in TLV to have a fella in my hostel bring some back from his day's adventuring. My advice to you: don't make the same mistake I did! This was the most delicious hummus I have ever tasted, I can only imagine how it would have been fresh. Another place worth visiting is the Arab town of Abu Ghosh in the hills outside Jerusalem. Famous for its hummus restaurants, it is also one of the few places in Israel where Arab and Jewish Israelis mingle with one another at hummus and shisha bars.

Tzfat is one of the four holy cities, the birthplace of Kabbalah and Jewish mysticism, and, it is believed, where the Messiah will return one day. It is also home to a large artist colony and has many breathtaking views. Basically, what I'm getting at is this: visit it already! Ok, perhaps a touch aggressive. However, shouldyou decide to make the trip here, you'll want to visit the one Yemeni place in town and get a lahuhe. This place is quite well-known. The lahuhe is basically a spongy pita pizza, filled with onion, tomato, oil, herbs, cheese, and schmug. So simple, so tasty, and the guy who makes them is a joy to watch.

For Jerusalem, my biggest tip would be to hit the shouks as much as possible and try whatever looks good, particularly the pastries. The rugelach - a rolled filled pastry - was a favourite, the chocolate one in particular, and there are numerous good spots in Mahane Yehuda for these. The Muslim Quarter of the Old City is also a gold-mine for pastries. Under-ground, old family bakeries operate around the clock creating baked treats to ancient family recipes. No two bakeries sell pastries that taste the same, so there are plenty to sample. The other hot tip would be to hit up Marakiya; a self-proclaimed "hipster soup" restaurant in the city centre. With its motley table settings of unmatched cutlery and crockery, this place simply produces several vegetarian soups en masse, dishing out hefty servings. My spicy cous cous and veg soup completely hit the spot on a cold evening, and being located in the city centre, it is within spitting distance of some trendy night spots.

For TLV, one place not to miss is Dr Shakshouka in Jaffa. The "Doctor" brought his father's recipe for this dish of eggs, tomato, onions, your choice of meat/veg, and spices from Tripoli. All smashed together and served still bubbling in a frying pan, it invariably comes with a near half-loaf of bread as an accompaniment. This place is an absolute institution, and even for someone like myself who is not particularly fond of eggs, it was a treat and makes for a perfect brunch - particularly if you've imbibed a little the night before. Other gems I came across were through aimless wanderings through the Yemenite Quarter and Neve Tzedek, below the Carmel market - itself a must-see. In particular, Anita's ice creamery - an International Award winner - is definitely worth a stop. The Mille-feuille I got was heaven in a cone. Not overdosed with sugar, it really did achieve the flavour of the french pastry.

THE HIGHLIGHT/LOWLIGHT
And the number 1 gong for top eatery on my trip goes to...(at this point, please imagine you're hearing a drum roll), YAHAMLOMA'S! I only discovered this cafe a couple of days before leaving, but boy what a find! The best falafel balls I tasted in Israel, hands down, but it was not just that. What initially got me hooked was an entirely vegetarian menu of innovative Middle Eastern dishes. Their take on dolmadas was simply sublime. Bulgar and spices replaces rice as the filling, wrapped in mango leaves instead of the traditional vine leaves, in a tomato and onion sauce with tahini and (rennet-free) parmesan bread on the side. The mango leaves are significantly more bitter than vine, and give off a hint of an eggplant taste, with the parmesan bread providing a good, sharp counterpoint to the bitterness for mopping up the flavours. Not overly substantial, but very lively.

And the lowlight from the trip? Well, for that I'm actually departing Israel and travelling into Wadi Musa - the town surrounding the ancient Nabatean city of Petra - and heading to Al Wadi Restaurant. Recommended by Lonely Planet, I must confess that the simple falafel was not all that bad - although not all that good either. However, what turned me off was the "vegetable soup", which consisted of hot water, a bit of parsley, and some decrepit chopped up french fries floating there within. Really? That's your vegetable soup?! There was, ahem, no return business from this guy.